Luis Stitzinger


Born 16.12.1968 in Füssen
Grown up in Halblech, Ostallgäu
resident of Füssen, Ostallgäu

Education:
Graduation, study sports and English TU / LMU Munich, state examination for mountain and ski guide
Professional activity:
Expedition leader AMICAL alpin, state certified mountain and ski guide, lecturer, author
Hobbies:
alpine sports in all forms and (Ab-) types: mountain climbing, ice climbing, ski mountain climbing, mountain running, paragliding, mountain biking, etc .; Reading, photographing

2013 Shisha Pangma
2013 • Shisha Pangma, 8027 m (Tibet)

A lix von Melle:
N-/NO-Flanke, Inaki-Route
Ski run from 7100 m (C2A) to 5700 m (lateral moraine glacier)

L uis Stitzinger:
N-/NO-Flanke, Inaki-Route
Ski run from 7980 m (ski depot under the main summit) to 5700 m (lateral moraine glacier)

Galerie:
Expeditionstagebuch:

2012 Manaslu
2012 • Manaslu, 8163 m (Nepal)

A lix von Melle:
NO flank / gate up to 7990 m
Ski run from 6900 m to 4850 m (BC)

Luis Stitzinger:
NO flank / gate up to 7990 m
Ski run from 6900 m to 4850 m (BC)

Gallery:
Expedition Diary:

2011 K2, Broad Peak
2011 • K2, 8611 m (Pakistan)

Luis Stitzinger:
Ascend Cesen route to the shoulder, approx. 8020 m
First ski tour Kukuczka-Route 8020 m – 5100 m (BC)

Gallery:
Expedition Diary:

2011 • Broad Peak 8051 m (Pakistan)

A lix von Melle:
Broad Peak Westridge and -flank

Luis Stitzinger:
Broad Peak Westridge and -flank, expedition Leader
Skiing of the Broad Peak from the Col, 7850 m

Gallery:
Expedition Diary:

2010 Cho Oyu, Makalu
2010 • Cho Oyu, 8201 m (Tibet)

A lix von Melle:
Tichy-Route

Gallery:

2010 • Makalu, 8463 m (Nepal)
A lix von Melle:
Attempt French route, up to 8050 m

L uis Stitzinger:
Attempt French route, up to 8050 m
Attempt ski descent

Galerie:
Expedition Diary:

2009 Dhaulagiri I
2009 • Dhaulagiri I, 8167 m (Nepal)
A lix von Melle:
NO-Ridge Route (II, 60°)
Together with Helga Söll second german woman at the summit

L uis Stitzinger:
NO-Ridge Route, Expeditionsleiter
Attempt ski descent Dhaulagiri I with Rupert Hauer

Gallery:
Expedition Diary:

2008 Nanga Parbat
2008 • Nanga Parbat, 8125m (Pakistan)
A lix von Melle:
Kinshofer route through the Diamir flank (V, 80 °)
Together with Helga Söll second german woman at the summit

L uis Stitzinger:
Kinshofer Route, expedition Leader
First ski tour of the Central Diamir flank
Speed ​​ascent up to 300m below the summit in 24.5h (BC-BC)
Partial perpetration of the Mazeno Ridge

Expedition Diary:
Gallery:

2007 Pik Lenin
2007 • Pik Lenin, 7134 m (Kirgisistan)
A lix von Melle:
Classical Route, NW-Ridge (bis 55°)

L uis Stitzinger:
Classic route, expedition leader
Speed ​​climb N-wall 8:23 h (ABC – ABC)
Continuous downhill skiing N-Wall

Gallery:

2006 Gasherbrum II
2006 • Gasherbrum II, 8035 m (Pakistan)
A lix von Melle:
SW-Sporn Route (III, 60°) „Banana Ridge“

L uis Stitzinger:
SW-Sporn Route, expedition leader
Speed climb 12:30 h (C1 – C1)
First German ski trip, possibly the first ever skiing experience ever together with Benedikt Böhm, Sebastian Haag

Gallery:

2005 Pumo Ri, Mt. McKinley
2005 • Pumo Ri, 7145 m (Nepal)
A lix von Melle:
SW-Ridge Route (IV, 85°) bis 6850 m

L uis Stitzinger:
SW-Ridge Route bis 6850 m, expedition leader

2005 • Mt. McKinley, 6194 m (Alaska, USA)
A lix von Melle:
West Buttress Route (II, 60°)

L uis Stitzinger:
West Buttress Route
Cassin-Ridge-Route (V+, 70°), irst successful german ascent since the 80’s
2004 Huascaran, Tocclaraju, Ama Dablam
2004 • Huascaran, 6655 m (Peru)
A lix von Melle:
Garganta Route (II, 55°) north summit, 6655 m

L uis Stitzinger:
Garganta Route, expedition leader

2004 • Tocclaraju, 6034 m (Peru)
A lix von Melle:
transgression (70°)

L uis Stitzinger:
transgression, expedition leader

2004 • Ama Dablam, 6853 m (Nepal)
A lix von Melle:
SW-Ridge Route (VI, 80°)

L uis Stitzinger:
SW-Ridge Route, Expeditionsleiter
2003 Khan Tengri
2003 • Khan Tengri, 7010 m (Kasachstan)
A lix von Melle:
Westridge Route (V, 60°) bis Pik Chapajev, 6100 m

L uis Stitzinger:
Westridge Route bis Gipfel, expedition leader
2002 Mustagh Ata
2002 • Mustagh Ata, 7546 m (China)
A lix von Melle:
Westridge Route
ski descent

L uis Stitzinger:
Westridge Route, expedition leader
ski descent
2001 Aconcagua
2001 • Aconcagua, 6962 m (Argentinien)
A lix von Melle:
Southwall, French route with Slovenian and Messner variants (VI+, 90°)
First german women’s ascent

L uis Stitzinger:
Southwall, French route with Slovenian and Messner variants
2000 Cho Oyu
2000 • Cho Oyu, 8201 m (Tibet)
L uis Stitzinger:
Tichy Route, expedition leader
1999 und früher
L uis Stitzinger:

Expeditions, extrem ski descents, alpine ice climbing, iceclimbing, alpine climbing, Big Wall climbing, s.u.
Expeditions:
Huayna Potosi 6088 m/Bolivien (1993-96): normal route (3x);
Nev. Sajama 6542 m/Bolivien (1993-96): normal route (3x);
Illimani 6442 m/Bolivien (1993-96): normal route (3x);
Nev. Ancohuma 6554 m/Bolivien (1996): normal route;
C. Condoriri 5580 m/Bolivien: normal route;
Chimborazo 6310 m/Ecuador (1990): Whymperroute, new westridge route (5x);
Cotopaxi 5897 m/Ecuador (1990): normal route (3x);
Mount Logan 5985 m/Kanada (1993):„Early Bird Buttress“ try first ascent;
Mount Baird 3858 m/Kanada (1993): first ascent;
Shivling 6543 m/Indien (1998): N-ridge try first ascent, W-ridge, u.a.

cliff skiing:

Bietschhorn N-Wand (Erstbefahrung), Ebenefluh N-Wand, Lenzspitze NO-Wand, Großglockner “Palavicinirinne”, Hochfeiler N-Wand, Hochferner N-Wand, “Pitztaler Eisexpress” (Wildspitze-, Hint. Brochkogel-, Petersenspitze-, Taschach-Eisflanke- N-Wände an einem Tag), „Ötztaler Eisexpress“ (Similaun-, Hintere Schwärze-, Mutmahlspitze-N-Wände an einem Tag), Habicht N-Wand, Großvenediger NO-Wand, Weißspitze N-Wand, Marmolada N-Wand, Ruderhofspitze N-Wand, Schrankogel NO-Wand, Gran Zebru N-Wand, Ortler Minigerode-Rinne, Königsspitze O-Wand, Schareck Mittlere N-Wand-Rinne, and more.

Alpine ice climbing:
Most classic north walls of the Eastern Alps, like Piz Roseg NO-Wand, Piz Palü N-Wand Bumillerpfeiler (Winter)/ NO-Pfeiler (Solo)/ NW-Pfeiler (Solo), Ortler N-Wand (mehrfach); viele Nordwände der Westalpen, u.a. Ebenefluh N-Wand, Großhorn N-Wand, Bietschhorn N-Wand, Obergabelhorn N-Wand, Aletschhorn N-Wand, Les Courtes N-Wand, Les Droites N-Wand, Triolet N-Wand, Mont Blanc de Tacul „Supercouloir“/ „Modica-Noury“/ „Gabarou“, and more.

ice climbing:
„Hängende Gärten“ Lüsenstal WI6, „“Kerze“ WI5/ „Männer ohne Nerven“ WI6- Pinistal, Erstbegehung „Shower Curtain“ WI6+ Sebenseefall Ehrwalder Alm, „Mordor“ WI5 Gasteiner Tal, and more.

Alpine climbing:

Grand Capucin „Schweizerführe“ 7 A0, Kleines Wellhorn „Gletschersinfonie“ 6c, Wendenstöcke „Sonnenkönig“ 7+, Salbitschijen „Westgrat“ 6+/38 SL in einem Tag, Piz Badile „Another Day in Paradise“ 7-, Torre Venezia „Tissi“ 6-, Tofana di Rozes „Pilastro“ 7+, Schüsselkarspitze “Bayerischer Traum” 6+, “Mont Cherie” 8-, Wilder Kaiser “Sportherz” 8, and more..

Big Walls:
El Capitan „The Nose“/ „Freeblast“/ „The Shield“, Quarterdomes N-Wall (Yosemite Valley, USA)